How to Stain Wood: Tips for Large and Small Projects

Staining wood is a wonderful way to add natural beauty to furniture and decking and protect it from wear and tear. Whether you already have experience with staining or are just starting out, anyone can get professional results with the proper technique. These tips will help you choose the right materials and apply each coat of stain correctly to achieve a finish you will be proud of.

Types of Wood Stains

Stains have either an oil base or a water base. Each has advantages, so let’s look at them.

Oil-Based Stains

Oil-based stains are a popular choice for beginners and for people with larger projects. Oil stains dry more slowly, letting you work for longer periods. Oil-based products penetrate deep into the wood for better protection, a richer color, and a more even look. They’re also less likely to raise the wood grain, so you don’t need to sand the finish down after the application.

Water-Based Stains

Water-based stains don’t give off strong odors and dry fast. They’re a wise choice if you have staining experience, want to complete the project quickly, or have limited ventilation in your workspace. They come in a variety of colors, but they may raise the wood grain, which requires light sanding between coats to keep the finish smooth.

What Woods Stain Well?

Not all types of wood react the same way to stains. Before you begin a new project, confirm the wood type you plan to use for your project and match it with the appropriate stain.

Good Woods to Stain

These five types of wood are excellent for staining:

• Oak: Oak has large pores that absorb and retain stains well. It’s a popular choice for both furniture and flooring.
• Ash and chestnut: Ash and chestnut are coarse-grained but have large pores like oak wood, so they retain stain just as well. 
• Beech: Beech is a heavy, pale-colored wood that won’t smudge. You can stain it to appear similar to dark cherrywood.
• Pine: Pine is a soft wood that can be tricky to stain, in part due to its unevenly dense natural grain. However, it performs well with lighter stains. Before you apply the stain, use a pre-stain wood conditioner.

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Difficult Woods to Stain

These four wood types are more difficult to stain:

• Alder: Alder is lightweight but doesn’t absorb stains evenly. A little pre-stain wood conditioner can help you keep issues at bay.
• Birch: Birch is another wood that’s known to absorb stain unevenly. Use light stains instead of darker stains, and always use a pre-stain conditioner.
• Cherry: Cherry wood has small pores that make it more difficult to stain. It also has a lovely, deep, dark, reddish color that many homeowners find hard to give up.
• Mahogany: Mahogany is already dark in color and less likely to need staining. If you decide to stain a mahogany piece, use an oil-based product to maintain compatibility with the wood’s natural oils.

How to Stain Wood Furniture

Suppose you’re refurbishing older wooden furniture. In that case, set aside plenty of time to finish the project. There are a few critical steps you need to follow first so the wood will evenly accept the stain.

You’ll need these materials and tools for the job:

• Goggles and gloves
• Painter’s tape
• Drop cloths
• Wood conditioner
• Wood stain
• Wood finish
• Stripper for paint removal
• Sandpaper
• Dry rag
• Natural bristle paintbrush (for oil-based stains)
• Synthetic paintbrush (for water-based stains)

Preparing Your Workspace

Work on staining projects in a well-ventilated workspace so fumes can escape. Place old newspapers or a drop cloth on the floor, then cover nearby furniture to prevent the stain from getting onto other surfaces. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves.

Also, wear old clothes that you won’t mind getting stained. After all, the finish is permanent.

Cleaning and Sanding

Start by thoroughly cleaning the wood surface. Then, sand the wood in the direction of the grain with progressively finer grits. Start with a coarser grit (80 grit to 100 grit) and work your way up to a finer grit (180 grit to 220 grit). Fine-grit paper removes existing stains and varnishes and opens the wood’s pores.  

Repairing Imperfections

Next, address minor dents, chips, and nicks in the wood by following these steps:

• Caulk the damaged area: Apply a wood filler to the damaged space. Let it dry, then sand down the area to leave a clean, smooth surface.
• Use steam to repair dents: You can easily fix minor dents with an iron and a wet cloth.
• Use epoxy for larger flaws: Two-part epoxy can help you fix larger dents. It dries hard without cracking and can be mixed with a tint to match your furniture.

Applying Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner

For pine, birch, alder, cherry, mahogany, and other woods that are prone to blotching, apply a thin coat of pre-stain wood conditioner with a fine paintbrush. Let the conditioner set for 10 or 15 minutes or according to the package directions. 

Preparing and Applying the Stain and Finish

Stir the stain thoroughly to redistribute settled dyes and pigment. Then, apply it to the wood with a paintbrush or rag. If you’re using a paintbrush, work with the grain of the wood to apply a nice, even coat.

Remove excess stain by wiping it off with a rag. If you want a lighter stain, start wiping immediately. Darker stains can sit for longer as they don’t drip.

After the stain is dry, use a clean, fine-haired brush to apply a clear stain finish if you desire. Clear finishes seal the color of the stain.

How to Stain a Wood Deck

Test your deck stain’s condition by dropping water on the surface. If the water soaks into the wood and doesn’t bead up, then it’s time to apply a new coat of stain. 

You’ll need these materials and tools for the job:

• Goggles and gloves
• Drop cloths
• Painter’s tape
• Deck cleaning solution
• Wood stain
• Wood finish
• Stripper for paint removal
• Flooring sander
• Dry rag
• Garden hose or pressure washer
• Natural bristle paint brush (for oil-based stains)
• Synthetic paint brush (for water-based stains)

Staining a deck requires a slightly different approach because it’s located outdoors and gets fairly heavy use. Here’s how to do it:

1. Prepare the work area. A few days before you start staining, clean your deck with a hose or power washer and a cleaning solution. Sweep off debris, clean between the slats, and patch up any holes. Cover nearby plants, windows, and walls with plastic to protect them from splatter.
2. Sand the deck. Use a floor sander or palm sander to sand the deck in the direction of the grain, removing splinters and smoothing out uneven areas. Wear safety goggles and a face mask to protect yourself from debris.
3. Prep the stain solution. Stir the stain thoroughly to distribute the dyes and pigments evenly. Test the stain on a small area to verify it’s the color you’re expecting.
4. Apply the stain. Working from one end of the deck to the other, apply the stain in thin, even layers. Be sure you can get off the deck without walking on fresh stain. Let the first coat dry and apply a second one as necessary.

Allow the deck to dry completely: The stain will take about 48 hours to dry completely. Don’t put furniture back in place or uncover plants, walls, and windows until then.

Tips for Successful Wood Staining

To ensure the best possible results when staining wood, keep these tips in mind:

• Always test the stain on a hidden area or scrap piece of wood first to ensure you like the color.
• Stir the stain frequently during application to maintain color consistency.
• Apply thin, even coats for better control and more uniform color.
• Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes and allow for proper drying.
• Never mix oil-based and water-based products in the same project.
• Allow adequate drying time between coats and before applying any finish.

Common Wood Staining Mistakes to Avoid

For best results, avoid these staining mistakes:

• Mixing oil and water: Never mix oil and water-based stains. 
• Mixing two different formulas: While you can combine two colors of stain to make a custom shade, only do it if both colors come from the same company and product line.
• Applying finish too soon: You can pour a water-based finish over an oil-based stain, but only after waiting a full 24 hours. 
• Not applying finish: Most stains don’t have a built-in finish, so you’ll want to apply one after 24 hours or as recommended to lock in and seal the stain’s color.