- [1:36] Tips for repairing cracked caulk in a bathroom
- [6:19] How to remove a broken soap holder without causing damage
- [12:37] Tips for adding a hook into a concrete lanai to make a clothesline
- [19:18] Danny gives his opinion on Aeroseal, a non-toxic sealant for the inside of air ducts
- [25:17] Home Depot Best New Product: Green Gobbler Lemon Scent Bio Flow Drain Strips
- [26:18] Simple Solution: How to attach a face frame to a cabinet or bookshelf without using nails
- [28:13] Question of the Week
You may have heard about a service called Aeroseal, which is designed to cover cracks and gaps in your heating and cooling system’s ductwork. But does it really work?
That’s what Evelyn, in Washington, is wondering. She recently learned that her air ducts have dust, and an HVAC professional suggested trying this product.
The Problem with Air Ducts
Ductwork maintenance is an ongoing issue for homeowners. On average, 20 to 30 percent of the air in the average home leaks from the ducts. That means air is not reaching the rooms it’s supposed to reach, which isn’t very energy efficient.
Usually, air ducts are insulated but the joints aren’t sealed. Take a look at your ductwork; you might be surprised to see insulation being blown away. All joints should be sealed with mastic or tape.
How Aeroseal Works
Aeroseal, as its name suggests, is a super-thin liquid sealant that is sprayed inside the air ducts. Sealing from the inside differs from taping ductwork from the outside, a common practice.
The service may cost between $1,500 and $2,500 for the average house, compared to half that for manual treatment.
But manual treatment only goes so far — literally! Aeroseal can pass through all the ducts, including those in the walls and ceilings.
There’s just one downside: Aeroseal won’t seal a hole larger than 5/8-inch-diameter. But that’s a small limitation for a system that does what it says it does.
Listen to the Today’s Homeowner Podcast for more home improvement tips!
Perfectly Square Clamping Blocks—When building a plywood box, whether it’s a cabinet or a drawer, it’s important that the two pieces meet at 90 degrees. One way to do that is with wooden clamping blocks.
First, take two pieces of 3/4-inch plywood, and cut them at a 90-degree angle with the factory edges.
Next, drill in two 1¼-inch holes in each block. Then, nip off the corners, so the two pieces of wood can come together without any interference.
When you’re ready to assemble the two workpieces, place one of the wooden blocks near the corner, and hold it in place with a clamp. Slide it back and forth until the rear surface is perfectly flush.
Put on another clamp, and you will have two of the wooden blocks holding it perfectly square.
Because of the factory edges, it will fit nice and tightly. Now, with the pieces held at exactly 90 degrees, you’re ready to drive in your screws.
No-Nail Face Frame—Nailing solid-wood face frames to cabinets, bookcases and shelving units requires filling and sanding each nail hole.
Avoid these tedious steps by eliminating the nails altogether and fastening the face frames with a biscuit joiner.
Use the joiner to cut slots into the back of the face frame parts and into the front edge of the cabinet or shelves, then simply secure the face frame with glue and biscuit splines.
Question of the Week
Q: I live in a one-story brick home that was built 15 years ago. I was considering getting spray foam insulation put into my attic between rafters to help save on heating and cooling.
We just survived this past week. I kept my electricity but lost water with the horrific temperatures and outages. I thought if I had this insulation, and I did lose power, it would help keep my attic warmer and my pipes better protected.
Would it be worth it? What are the pros and cons, or do you have any idea of the cost?
A: If you have pipes in your attic and you don’t have a foam encapsulated home, and do have cold temperatures on uninsulated piping, that can be a real problem.
Any insulation you have in your attic has to be removed before you put in the foam insulation, but even if you sprayed foam between the rafters, you would still need to insulate the pipes really well.
If something like this were to ever happen again, you would have to rely on the pipes.
In this case, we suggest focusing on insulating the pipes and the attic floor. If we were discussing this issue in a colder climate, there would be other concerns that might need to be addressed.