Your water heater works hard every day, but without regular maintenance, it can become inefficient, drive up energy bills, and even fail prematurely. Simple upkeep — like flushing the tank and checking the anode rod — can extend its lifespan by years and help you avoid expensive repairs.
Ignoring maintenance can cost you. A neglected water heater might only last 8–10 years, while a well-maintained unit can push past 15 years. Repairs can range from $150 to $500, while a full replacement costs $1,000 to $3,500.
In this guide, we’ll provide five easy water heater maintenance tips to keep your system running efficiently. We’ll also explain how to tell when it’s time to call a pro or replace your unit entirely.
Why Is Water Heater Maintenance Important?
We continuously call on our water heaters to provide hot water, so they’re under constant strain. Unless you provide regular maintenance, you can suddenly find yourself without hot water. Sediment buildup and corrosion can lead to higher energy consumption and costly repairs or the need for replacement.
Tips and Tricks for Maintaining Your Water Heater
While you should leave some maintenance tasks to a licensed plumber, you can do five regular maintenance tasks to keep your water heater working efficiently.
1. Flush Your Water Heater

Why it matters: Sediment buildup forces your heater to work harder, raising energy bills and shortening its lifespan.
How often: Once or twice a year.
Tools needed: Garden hose, 5-gallon bucket.
Steps:
- Turn off the power and water supply to avoid damage.
- Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and place the other end in a bucket or near a floor drain.
- Open the drain valve and empty the tank. Repeat until the water runs clear.
- Turn on the cold water supply for 30 seconds to flush out the remaining sediment, then drain again.
- Close the drain valve, remove the hose, and refill the tank. Once the tank is full, restore power.
Pro tip: If your water heater is making popping noises, it likely has excessive sediment and needs flushing immediately.
2. Test the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve

Why it matters: Prevents dangerous pressure buildup that could lead to tank failure.
How often: Once or twice a year.
Tools needed: 5-gallon bucket.
Steps:
- Find the TPR valve (usually on top or side of the tank) with a pipe running down.
- Place a bucket under the pipe to catch water.
- Lift the valve toggle carefully. Hot water should discharge briefly.
- Release the toggle to close the valve. If water keeps dripping, replace the valve.
Pro tip: If no water comes out when you lift the toggle, the valve may be faulty and should be replaced immediately.
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3. Turn Down the Water Temperature

Why it matters: Lowering the temperature reduces wear and saves on energy costs.
How often: Check once; adjust if necessary.
Tools needed: Screwdriver.
Steps:
- Locate the thermostat behind an access panel. You may need to move the insulation aside.
- Adjust the setting to 120–130°F using a screwdriver.
- Replace the insulation and panel, then wait a few hours before testing the water temperature.
Pro tip: If you use well water, keep the temperature at 140°F to prevent bacteria growth. If you notice a sulfur smell, increase the temperature to kill off bacteria.
4. Check Your Anode Rod

Why it matters: Prevents tank corrosion by attracting minerals that would otherwise damage the tank.
How often: Once a year.
Tools needed: Socket wrench (1 1/16-inch), 5-gallon bucket, replacement anode rod (if needed).
Steps:
- Turn off the power and water supply. Let the tank cool.
- Drain 5–10 gallons of water using the drain valve to prevent spills.
- Locate and unscrew the anode rod on top of the tank.
- Inspect the rod. If it’s heavily corroded or less than half its original thickness, replace it.
- Reinstall or replace the rod, then refill the tank and restore power.
Pro tip: A deteriorated anode rod is a sign your water heater is aging. If it’s severely corroded, consider checking the tank for signs of rust.
5. Install Insulation

Why it matters: Reduces heat loss, improving efficiency and extending the unit’s life.
How often: Once.
Tools needed: Water heater insulation blanket, pipe insulation, utility knife.
Steps:
- Shut off the power and let the tank cool.
- Measure and cut the insulation blanket to fit around the water heater, leaving openings for controls, vents, and the TPR valve.
- Wrap the insulation around the tank and secure it with tape.
- Measure and cut pipe insulation to fit around the hot water pipe, then slide it into place.
Pro tip: Insulating the first few feet of hot water piping prevents heat loss and reduces energy waste.
The Impact of Water Quality
Your home’s water quality directly affects your water heater’s efficiency and lifespan. Hard water, which contains high levels of calcium and magnesium, causes mineral buildup inside the tank. Over time, this reduces efficiency, forces the heater to work harder, and shortens its lifespan. If you live in an area with hard water, flushing the tank twice a year can help, and installing a water softener can further prevent issues.
Iron-rich water can also create problems, leading to rust and deterioration inside the tank. If your hot water appears reddish or brownish, excessive iron may be corroding the internal components. A filtration system can help remove iron before it reaches the heater, extending its life. If you notice cloudy or discolored hot water, it’s best to have a plumber inspect your system to determine whether the issue is inside the water heater or within your home’s plumbing.
Signs Your Water Heater Needs Repair or Replacement
With proper maintenance, most water heaters last 8 to 12 years. If your unit is nearing this age, watch for these signs to determine whether it’s best to repair or replace it.
When To Repair Your Water Heater
- Not enough hot water: If your water runs cold too quickly, sediment buildup may be reducing the tank’s efficiency. A flush can often fix this.
- Small leaks around connections: Tightening fittings or replacing gaskets may stop minor leaks.
- Unusual noises: Rumbling or popping sounds indicate sediment buildup. Try flushing the tank first.
- Pilot light keeps going out (gas water heaters): Could be a faulty thermocouple or gas control valve—both of which are repairable.
When To Replace Your Water Heater
- Old age: If your water heater is over 12 years old, consider replacing it before it fails unexpectedly.
- Severe leaks from the tank itself: If the main tank is leaking, replacement is the only option.
- Corroded anode rod and rust inside the tank: If rust is visible in your hot water or around fittings, the tank may deteriorate from the inside.
- Long wait times for hot water: If heating takes significantly longer than it used to, the unit may be failing.
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FAQs about Water Heater Maintenance
Flush your water heater once a year if you have soft water, and twice a year if you have hard water. Hard water contains minerals like calcium and magnesium that settle in the tank, causing buildup and reducing efficiency. If you’re unsure whether you have hard water, check for white mineral deposits around faucets or showerheads — this is a telltale sign.
If your water heater is making rumbling or popping noises, it’s a sign of sediment buildup and may need flushing sooner.
Skipping regular flushes can lead to thick sediment layers at the bottom of the tank, forcing the heating element to work harder. This reduces efficiency, shortens the unit’s lifespan, and increases energy bills. If left unaddressed, sediment buildup can cause overheating and even tank failure, leading to leaks or costly replacements.
If your hot water runs out faster than usual or you notice cloudy water, your heater likely has too much sediment and needs immediate flushing.
Follow these steps to flush sediment out of a water heater:
- Turn off the power and water supply: Shut off the gas or electricity, and close the cold water valve at the top of the tank.
- Connect a garden hose to the drain valve: Place the other end in a large bucket or near a floor drain.
- Open the drain valve: Let the water flow out until the tank is empty. If the water is dark or has sediment, keep draining and refilling until it runs clear.
- Flush with fresh water: Briefly turn on the cold water supply while the drain valve is still open to wash out any remaining debris.
- Close the valve and refill the tank: Once done, remove the hose, close the drain valve, and turn the water supply back on.
- Turn the power back on: Wait about 30 minutes for the water to heat before testing your hot water.