As a lawn care expert, I understand the struggle of getting a perfect, lush lawn. Whether you’re a new or long-time homeowner, you might be struggling with a patchy, weed-infested lawn — and not sure how to improve it. That’s why I’ve compiled the six steps I personally use to get and keep my lawn beautiful. Here’s how to start the season with a kick-off-your-shoes lawn.
1. De-Weed
It’s not unusual to have weeds like crabgrass and dandelions on your lawn. A weedy lawn is usually a sign of nutrient imbalance or other soil problems. For small patches, just pull or dig them out. Try to get all the roots, so the weeds can’t grow back.
If you have a weed-infested lawn, consider applying a chemical or organic herbicide or making your own weed killer with white vinegar, salt, and dish soap. Don’t apply herbicide if you’re seeding your lawn. Pre-emergent herbicides will also prevent grass seeds from sprouting.
Additionally, consider using mulch in landscaping beds next to your lawn. This can help prevent weed seeds from spreading to your grass.
While fighting weeds is a year-round lawn maintenance job, weed prevention is best practiced in the fall and early spring to take advantage of the growing season of turf grasses. Discover effective methods for managing weeds in your lawn by exploring our article.
2. Seeding Bare Spots
You can fill large bare spots by re-seeding. Get the right type of seed to match your lawn. It’s usually better to choose high-quality seed, even if it costs a bit more.
Avoid any seed that contains more than .01% of weed seed. Plant according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Water lightly but regularly.
When seeding, you need to have proper soil moisture. Cover the newly seeded areas with a thin layer of straw or peat moss to retain moisture and protect the seeds from birds. Be patient — depending on the grass type, germination can take anywhere from 5–30 days. Once your grass reaches mowing height, gradually reduce how often you water to encourage deep root growth.
If you have large brown spots in your yard, use this checklist to help you determine the cause.
3. Allow the Soil to Breathe
The soil in lawns becomes compacted over time, resulting in weak or dying grass. Aerate your soil with a garden fork or a manual lawn plug aerator.
The holes left behind allow the soil to breathe and let water and nutrients reach the roots of your grass. For a larger area, you may want to rent a gas-powered, walk-behind aerator. It’s a good idea to mark any sprinkler lines or electrical wires first so you don’t cut them in the process.
The best time to aerate your lawn is during the growing season, when the grass can heal and fill in any open areas after you remove the soil plugs. For cool-season grasses, this is early spring or fall. For warm-season grasses, late spring through early summer is ideal. Avoid aerating during drought conditions or extreme heat — it can stress the grass.
4. Dethatch
Thatch is decaying grass blades (clippings) that can build up in your lawn. A little bit of thatch is good for your lawn, but too much can choke healthy grass and stop water and nutrients from reaching the roots.
If the thatch in your yard is more than 1/2 inch thick, remove it with a lawn rake or specialized dethatching rake. For bigger areas, rent a gas-powered dethatcher, also known as a power rake.
After dethatching, I recommend overseeding your lawn — especially in areas where you removed a lot of thatch. This will help fill in any bare spots and promote a denser, healthier lawn. Remember to water thoroughly after dethatching to help your lawn recover from the stress of the process.
5. Proper Mowing Technique
For a good-looking lawn, cut less grass more frequently. You should only remove one-third of the length of the grass blade when you mow.
Cutting any deeper puts unnecessary strain on the plant. So, schedule your mowing to allow just that much growth between cuttings. It’s also good to leave the grass a little taller in warmer months, so it develops a better root system and better resists drought.
You should also keep your mower blades sharp. Dull blades tear the grass instead of cutting it cleanly, which can lead to a brownish cast on your lawn and make it more susceptible to disease. Sharpen your blades at least once a season — or more often if you mow frequently or have a large lawn.
Performing a bit of simple, routine maintenance on your lawn mower will keep your mower running smoothly and extend its lifetime.
6. Water and Feed
Once your grass starts growing, give your lawn at least 1” of water weekly. Until then, water less frequently. But remember that cold air is very drying to plants and lawns.
If your lawn looks bad, fertilize lightly in the spring with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer. Save the heavier feedings for fall, when cool-season grasses are at their peak growing season.
When watering, aim for deep, infrequent irrigation rather than frequent, shallow watering. This encourages deeper root growth, making your lawn more drought-resistant. The best time to water is early morning, as this allows the grass to dry before evening, reducing the risk of fungal diseases.
Top-dressing your lawn with new soil gradually improves its health. As organic matter breaks down, the new soil filters through the existing soil to improve texture and overall health.
Soil Testing: The Foundation of a Healthy Lawn
Before embarking on any lawn care regimen, I recommend checking your soil’s composition. Conduct a soil test to determine pH levels and nutrient content. This information will guide you in choosing the right fertilizers and amendments for your specific lawn needs.
Most county extension offices offer affordable soil testing services, providing detailed reports and personalized recommendations for your lawn.
Integrated Pest Management
A holistic approach to lawn care should include managing pests and diseases. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) focuses on prevention, monitoring, and control methods that minimize environmental impact.
If you’d like to use IPM on your lawn, it involves choosing disease-resistant grass varieties, promoting beneficial insects, and using targeted treatments only when necessary. With IPM, you can keep your lawn healthy and reduce your reliance on chemical pesticides.
Final Thoughts
Getting a perfect lawn doesn’t happen overnight, but if you follow these guidelines, you’ll be well on your way to creating a lush, green yard. Remember, consistency is key in lawn care. Regular maintenance and attention to detail will reward you with a beautiful, healthy lawn that you can enjoy year after year.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I water my lawn?
I recommend watering it deeply 1–2 times per week, providing about 1–inch of water each time. However, you should adjust how often based on your rainfall and local climate conditions.
What's the best grass type for my region?
The best grass type depends on your climate, sun exposure, and soil type. I recommend asking a local nursery or extension office for what they recommend for your area.
When is the best time to fertilize my lawn?
For cool-season grasses, you should fertilize in early spring and fall. For warm-season grasses, fertilize in late spring and summer.
How do I fix patchy areas in my lawn?
You should remove dead grass, loosen the soil, add compost, sow grass seed, and keep the area moist until the new grass establishes.
