How to Build a Grill Shelter
There’s nothing like grilling outside with family and friends, but you also want to protect that grill from the elements. Rather than leave this grill out in the open, we’re building a covering that can provide some protection.
Our grill shelter is built around an existing paver pad, so the dimensions are specific to that space.
Yours may vary depending on the size of your grill or available space.
We begin by setting 4-by-4 posts at each corner of the pad in post holes filled with concrete. We have about 2 feet of post in the ground and about 8 feet above.
Next, we cut 2-by-6s with 45-degree miters on each end to wrap the 4-by-4 posts at about 8 feet above the ground. This band is leveled all the way around as each piece is secured, before the 4-by-4s are cut off flush with the top of the band.
Next, we cut the joists that will sit on top of the band and support the roof. These joists will overhang the front and back by about 6 inches with a decorative, upward bevel cut on each end.
To create some slope for the roof to drain, we’re notching the backside of the joists.
For the two outer joists, that means a notch that goes from 1 inch, where the joist sits on the back of the band, tapering down to zero, where it sits on the front.
The inside joists simply get a 1-inch-deep by 1-and-a-half-inch-wide notch on the back side. When these are secured to the structure, we have a roof frame that slopes 1 inch over about 4 feet.
To continue the arbor style, I’m creating short “finger joists” from more 2-by-6 material. These are secured to the sides of the joists on each end of the shelter with 3-inch-long screws.
On top of the joists, we’re securing some 1-by-2s running perpendicular to the joists, which will serve as our anchor point for the metal roofing.
The corrugated metal roof is cut to size using a circular saw outfitted with a metal cutting blade. Then we secure it to the frame with roofing screws, which have an integrated rubber washer to keep the roof watertight.