The eaves on a house are enclosed with a vertical fascia board to cover the end of the roof rafters or ceiling joists, and horizontal soffit boards to cover the bottom of the roofs rafters or joists.
Due to their exposure to the elements, fascia boards can rot over time. They are also a favorite target for squirrels.
How to Replace a Fascia Board:
- Remove Damaged Fascia Board: Use a flat pry bar to remove the damaged fascia board. If the board is covered by guttering, you will need to carefully remove the gutter first.
- Match Fascia Board: Buy a new board that matches the old fascia board in both thickness and width. In addition to wood, you can also replace damaged fascia boards with Cellular PVC or fiber cement material.
- Cut New Fascia Board: Using the damaged fascia board as a pattern, cut the new fascia board to match. Join two fascia boards together over a rafter or joist at a 45° angle by setting your circular saw to 45 degrees, then cutting square across the width of the board.
- Attach New Fascia Board: Trial fit the new fascia board in place, and attach it with 8-penny galvanized or stainless steel finishing nails.
- Caulk and Paint New Fascia Board: Caulk any joints or seams in the new fascia board and fill nail holes. After the caulking has set, prime and paint the new board.
Watch this video to find out more.
- How to Replace Metal Drip Edge Eave Strips (video)
- How to Replace Damaged Wood Lap Siding (video)
- How to Install Soffit Eave Vents (video)
Danny Lipford: Even though it doesn’t serve a structural purpose, a rotten fascia board can be unattractive and allow moisture to damage the framing behind it.
In order to completely pry the damaged piece loose, you may have to lift up the metal eave strip just above it. Remove the damaged board all the way to the nearest seam. The new material should match the old in thickness and width, whether it is wood or composite material.
A piece of fascia at the end of the roof slope may include some odd angles. In these cases use the old piece as a template to cut the new one. When joining fascia along a straight run, the ends of the boards should always be cut with opposing 45-degree angles to overlap each other.
When the fit is right, attach the new material with long, galvanized or stainless steel finish nails. Then, after some caulk and putty, it’s ready for paint.
“…remove the facia board to the closest seam, and replace.” …really? I have 6 inches of rot on a 14 ft piece of clear 1×5 clear cedar, butt joined by the way to the next piece. Info on how to cut 45 degree to splice into the undamaged 13 ft. be helpful.
I have a house in St. Petersburg Florida that was built in 1922. The fascia is rotten and the buyer wants it replaced before he closes. I asked the handyman to not only replace the rotten fascia with new wood but also replace the old drip edge eaves strip with new metal. He wants to replace the wood, but leave the old drip edge. The roofers replaced some fascia and put new drip edge around the new wood. The handy man says he won’t replace the eaves drip edge because he has to lift the roof shingles and he doesn’t want to mess them up. Do you think I should hire a roofer to do this job because the handy man does not want to take the time to do the job the right way?
good god the video stops and starts frequently… work on your banwidth! (This is happening in my office with a T1 line…)
Replacing the fascia section and cutting and repair all looked good, Only one comment, you are using an aluminum ladder within 18 inches of the electric open service wire. You may understand the hazard, but the DIY’’er may be in for a “SHOCK” when he contacts 120V or 220v service wire with a grounded aluminum ladder.
Thanks for your feedback, Wayne! Yes, do-it-yourselfers should always remember, “Safety first!”
Take care. 🙂