Hour 1
Listen to hear how to remove paint from brick, how to fix cracks in concrete, and more!
Tips for Stripping Painted Brick Surfaces
Denise Stewart has a painted fireplace along her 1950s home’s exterior — and it’s certainly seen better days. The paint has cracked and peeled, making it unattractive.
Now, she wants to know, “Can I remove the paint and save the look of the brick facade?”
The answer is yes! It is a strenuous and messy process, but it is doable.
First, you need to test the paint for lead, which can be dangerous. High blood pressure is just one potential side effect of lead exposure. Kidney and reproductive health issues are others.
Go to The Home Depot and buy a simple lead test for peace of mind. If the paint tests positive for lead, call a lead abatement company. If it does not test positive for lead, you can strip the paint!
We recommend chemical-based strippers, especially citrus strippers. Buy two to three small containers of different types of paint removers and apply them to small areas to see which one works best. We’ve always had great results with Citristrip.
Always wear eye protection and rubber gloves when using a chemical stripper, and follow the directions closely before tackling this chore.
If you need to, apply the stripper, and cover it with a thin layer of plastic. This delays the evaporation process, giving the stripper a longer time to work.
Give Your Concrete Patio a Facelift!
As spring gives way to summer, most families are looking for opportunities to spend time outside. But if your concrete patio is looking a little worse for the wear, you may not be so excited about that prospect.
As durable as concrete is, over time the surface can become rough and pitted, what pros call “spalling,” because of freeze/thaw cycles, chemicals, or erosion from excessive rainfall.
To correct the situation, you’ll need to re-surface it with a material like Quikrete Re-Cap Concrete Resurfacer. This is a polymer-modified Portland cement product that’s specially designed for making thin-layer repairs and restoring the appearance of concrete.
You can apply it as thin as a sixteenth of an inch or as thick as one-half inch, so it’s ideal for “spalled” concrete.
Begin by cleaning the concrete with a pressure washer before mixing the Re-Cap in a 5-gallon bucket. The slab should be damp, but without standing water, before you pour it on the surface.
Then you simply use a squeegee to spread the material out evenly over the slab at a uniform thickness.
For a patio, you’ll likely want to add a non-slip finish by dragging a push broom over the surface as the Re-Cap begins to harden.
This “Around The Yard” segment is brought to you by Quikrete.
How to Fix Concrete Cracks
A homeowner has a concrete patio that was mud-jacked — that is, elevated — but what should have been a temporary fix actually deepened the cracks and made the patio even more uneven.
Now, she asks, ” Is there something that would fill those cracks, alleviate the heave and thaw, and allow us to use an epoxy coating afterward?”
This problem is more complicated than just the expansion and contraction of surface-type cracks. If one side of the crack is higher than the other, that means the crack has gone all the way through the slab. If there have been problems with settling, there will continue to be movement.
In other words, you will need more than a resurfacing product’s tolerance can allow.
To fill more than surface cracks in concrete, we suggest using a concrete repair caulk made by Quikrete. This caulk will remain flexible — even when there is movement.
Use this sparingly because you want to avoid a lot of overlap. The resulting smoothness will also allow you to cover the concrete with another coating, like an epoxy coating.
If you want to go that route, it’s important to ensure you seal the cracks fully and that the caulk is dry before applying the epoxy coating.
Of course, if the crack is too far gone to repair with caulk, the only long-term solution would be to pull out that concrete and pour something new from scratch.
If you decide to pour the concrete yourself, avoid these concrete pouring mistakes.
Happy home improving!
Hour 2
Listen to learn how to remove popcorn ceiling, get rid of mold on a metal roof, why frost is forming indoors, and more!
Removing Popcorn Ceiling
A homeowner faces a popular project these days: he wants to remove the dated popcorn ceiling in his bathroom.
And friends tell him it’s go time!
He says, “People tell me it’s as simple as spraying water on it and scraping it off. Is that true?”
Yes, that is true! But there are a couple of important considerations:
First, make sure that your ceiling contains no asbestos. This building material can present some health risks if disturbed and you’re exposed to it.
Even though asbestos was mostly banned after 1978, there could still be cause for concern. Hire a pro for this job if you’re not absolutely certain there’s no asbestos.
Want to scrape this ceiling yourself? Removing the popcorn ceiling is truly an easy process for most able-bodied do-it-yourselfers.
We have several tips and tricks, along with recommended tools. Learn more about removing the popcorn ceiling here.
For now, here’s an overview:
- Spray very hot water on the texture.
- Remember not to gouge the drywall underneath when you scrape the popcorn ceiling. You will inevitably need to do some drywall repair after the removal but try to minimize that the best you can.
- In addition, after you finish scraping off the popcorn, make sure that you let it dry. If you want to accelerate the drying time, use a fan. When it’s nice and dry, you can apply a primer to the drywall and paint it.
- If your popcorn ceiling is painted, the removal job is more challenging. It is still removable, but it is more complicated work and takes more time.
Cleaning Mold on Corrugated Metal Roof
Mold is forming on a homeowner’s corrugated ceiling, which is actually the underside of a metal roof.
She asks, “How do I get rid of it?”
First, pressure-wash the ceiling, as directed, and get it as clean as possible. Make sure that the metal is completely clean before beginning.
After that, scrub the ceiling with a brush and let it dry. Since the ceiling is high, it may be helpful to you a brush extender.
Then, use a spray, as directed on the bottle, called Wet and Forget. It will prevent mold and mildew from coming back.
Additionally, there are mold and algae killers designed specifically for metal roofs. A good option is one called BioAdvanced Moss and Algae Killer. It is an algae killer primarily used on the top of a metal roof.
To apply, you spray it on, as directed, then scrub it with a scrub brush. Next, power-wash it clean. Ensure there is enough ventilation since this is in a more restricted area and out of the sun.
When it comes to mold, the process is simple: identify it, treat it, scrub it off, and pressure wash it clean! This process will get rid of your mold and mildew issues.
Why Frost Forms Indoors
A homeowner built his house in mid-October. By the time it was mid-December, they had one of the coldest nights of the year. He found reduced frost in the corner between the wall and the ceiling in his guest bathroom and he noticed frost in every room on that same side of the house.
He asks, “Do you think the frost formed because a bathroom vent wasn’t used, or is it a structural issue?”
If an exhaust fan isn’t used or the fan is not venting correctly, that does provide all the elements for frost to occur in there, but the unused bathroom fan would not render frost to appear in multiple rooms. If that were the case, it would appear only in the bathroom. But there are two common reasons that you get frost inside a house: the enclosure envelope of the building has failed, and the relative humidity inside the house is too high.
The first thing to do is check the attic and ensure that the insulation is how it should be and spread out as much as it should be.
If the building envelope has failed, it is almost always an insulation problem. To check, go into the attic and look around. Don’t look for the amount of insulation; look to see if the insulation is contacting the top side of your ceiling and the drywall. If it’s not, that is an issue.
When cold air comes up through the soffit vent and the attic insulation is not protecting the top of the drywall, you will end up with condensation. If it is cold enough, the condensation will turn into frost, not only on the interior walls but also in the attic.
It is super important to ensure your home is protected during cold weather extremes, especially in a very cold area, because the cold can cause some issues.
Best New Products
Husky’s 1200-Lumen Dual Power Rechargeable Flashlight is the perfect flashlight for any adventure or emergency situation. Learn more>> |
Simple Solutions
Miter-Saw Micro Cuts—When using a power miter saw, you often cut a board to fit and discover that it’s just a bit too long. Here’s how to trim off just a teeny tiny bit to produce a perfect fit: Lower the blade, butt the end of the board against the body of the blade—not the teeth—then raise the blade and make the cut. The blade will remove a small fraction of wood, equal to the distance the carbide teeth extend beyond the body of the blade.
Quick-Wrap Tool Grips—There are many hand tools that don’t have comfortable hand grips, but they should. Here’s a quick, affordable way to add comfort and non-slip grips to any tool: Go to the pharmacy and buy a roll of self-adherent wrap, which is a rubbery, stretchy gauze-like material that sticks to itself. Wrap it around the tool handle as many times as necessary to create a soft, cushiony grip.