Step 7: Turn on Battery Charger
Remove your hands from the setup, and turn on the battery charger. While the current from a battery charger isn’t likely to be too dangerous, it’s not a good idea to touch it while running.
Step 8: Allow Time to Work
Soon you should see tiny bubbles coming off both your tool and the anode, and eventually the rust will start flaking off or disintegrating. I left this small tool on for about five hours, but larger or rustier items might take a day or two.
Electrolysis only works as long as there’s rust, so you don’t have to worry about leaving it too long. If it isn’t working, turn off the charger and check the clamps to be sure there’s a solid electrical connection. For extremely rusty items, you may want to scour a clean spot for the clamp to connect.
Step 9: Clean Item
When enough time has elapsed, turn off the battery charger and remove the item from the solution. It’ll be coated with powdery black iron that needs to be wiped or scrubbed away.
Use a scrubby sponge, steel wool, or brush to clean off the black coating and rinse well. If there’s still rust, you can put it back in the bath for a second round.
Step 10: Protect Clean Surface
The bare metal will very quickly begin to rust again. If you’re restoring a tool, sharpen and oil it to prevent future rusting. If you’re preparing an item for painting, apply a coat of primer as soon as possible.
Electrolysis is really easy once you get the hang of it, and you’ll be amazed at how well it works!
Further Information
- Removing Rust with Electrolysis (Dan’s Shop)
- Electrolytic Derusting (stovebolt.com)
- Electrolysis: A Superior Cleaning Agent (Nova Scotia Antique Engine & Tractor Association)
What was the amperage setting on the charger?? was this a “trickle charger” (1-2 amps) , or a larger, speed charger??