Bromeliads are a diverse and fascinating group of plants that can add a splash of exotic color and greenery to any room. While they have a reputation for being finicky, many bromeliad varieties are surprisingly easy to grow as houseplants. These low-maintenance beauties are adaptable to temperature and humidity shifts, and their blooms can last for months. Whether you’re a seasoned plant parent or a beginner looking to expand your indoor garden, bromeliads are a great plant to try.
About Bromeliads
The family of Bromeliads includes a variety of plants, including Spanish moss and pineapples. However, many varieties have been cultivated as stunning houseplants. Bromeliads fall into two main categories: epiphytic, which naturally clings to trees or rocks, and terrestrial, which grows on rainforest floors. While many adapt well to being potted, all bromeliads require a very light potting mix to thrive.
The most common potted bromeliads available as houseplants include varieties like Billbergia, Cryptanthus, Guzmania, and Neoregelia. These plants typically feature brilliantly colored flower spikes atop strappy foliage in a range of colors, often decorated with striking stripes and spots.
Bromeliad Growing Basics
To successfully grow bromeliads, you need to understand their specific needs. While different varieties may have different requirements, there are some general guidelines to follow to give most bromeliads the best possible care.
Choosing Plants
When selecting a bromeliad, look for undamaged plants that are early in the bloom stage. Opt for shorter flower spikes that aren’t fully colored yet to maximize the bloom time at home. Plants preparing to bloom will start to show color changes in the center. This initial choice impacts your overall experience, as healthier plants are more likely to adapt well to home environments.
Potting
Bromeliad roots are mostly used for support rather than nutrient uptake. When potting these plants, it’s crucial to plant them exactly up to the base of the leaves. Planting too deep can lead to rot, while planting too shallow won’t provide enough support. A 4″ to 6″ pot is usually enough, but if the plant is top-heavy, you’ll want to use a larger, heavier planter for stability.
It’s also important to choose a pot with enough drainage holes. You might want to think about terra cotta pots because they allow for better air circulation, which is particularly beneficial for this type of plants. But you can also use decorative pots as long as they have enough drainage.
Light Requirements
Most bromeliads prefer bright, indirect light. However, some varieties can tolerate more sun or shade than others. When choosing a location for your bromeliad, consider the specific light requirements of your plant variety. Some may thrive in a sunny window, while others might prefer a shadier spot. You can check the tag on your plant for the name of the species and what it’s light requirements are, but we’ll also share some species-specific information below.
Pay attention to leaf color and health; yellow leaves could indicate too much direct light, while dark green leaves may suggest inadequate lighting. Supplemental grow lights can also be a good idea during darker winter months to make sure your bromeliad gets enough light to thrive year-round.
Soil and Potting Mix
Bromeliads require a light, fast-draining, acidic soil that mimics their natural rainforest environment. Never use garden soil or heavy potting mixes that become easily saturated. A packaged orchid potting mix is an excellent choice, or you can create your own by mixing sand into a peat-based potting mix.
Adding fine pine bark and perlite can also contribute to a well-draining potting medium. Soil structure is crucial to prevent root rot and ensure aeration. Regularly refresh the potting mix every two years, repotting your bromeliad if necessary, to maintain optimal conditions for root health.
Temperature and Humidity
One of the advantages of growing bromeliads is their tolerance to a wide range of temperatures (35°F to 100°F). However, they grow best between 55°F and 90°F. In hotter temperatures, ensure the plant gets plenty of humidity by misting or using a pebble tray.
You can also use a humidifier if your home environment is particularly dry. Bromeliads exposed to consistent humidity levels tend to show healthier growth and more vibrant foliage. It’s equally important to avoid placing them near cold drafts or aggressive air conditioning that can dry out the leaves.
Watering Techniques
Proper watering is crucial for bromeliad health. As a general rule, allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Water thoroughly, but be sure to empty the drainage tray to prevent the plant from standing in water. During the summer growing season, you may need to water more frequently.
For tank-type bromeliads (those with strappy leaves that funnel down to a central cup), it’s important to flush out the leaf cup each time you water. This helps remove built-up salts and debris from the standing water. Some growers add a small amount of fertilizer to the tank water, which the leaves can absorb.
Water quality can affect your bromeliad’s health too. Use rainwater, or distilled water, or let tap water sit overnight to allow chlorine and other chemicals to evaporate before using it on your plant.
Air Circulation
Bromeliads benefit from good air circulation but keep them away from heating and cooling vents to avoid extreme temperature fluctuations and dry air. A fan running on a gentle setting near your plants can assist in maintaining proper air movement.
Proper air circulation helps prevent fungal diseases and keeps the foliage in better condition. While these plants can tolerate various environments, stagnant air can lead to issues such as mold or mildew forming on or around your bromeliads.
Fertilizing Bromeliads
Most bromeliads don’t require heavy fertilization, although some varieties are heavier feeders than others. A small amount of slow-release fertilizer mixed into the potting soil is often sufficient. For those who prefer regular feeding, use a liquid fertilizer at about one-fourth the recommended dosage, applied monthly during the growing season. Avoid fertilizing bromeliads during the winter months.
When applying liquid fertilizers, avoid pouring directly into the central cup. Mist the fertilizer onto the leaves or water it into the soil around the base. Over-fertilization can lead to burnt tips or excessive salt build-up, so it’s vital to follow recommended guidelines.
Types of Bromeliads for Indoors
Here’s a list of common bromeliad plants that are often grown indoors, along with their light and moisture requirements:
Guzmania
Guzmanias are one of the most popular indoor bromeliads, known for their vibrant, long-lasting flower bracts that come in shades of red, orange, yellow, or pink. The flowers grow from the center of a rosette of glossy green leaves, often lasting for several months. Guzmanias add a bright, tropical touch to any space and thrive in warm, humid environments. Their compact size makes them ideal for small indoor gardens or tabletops.
- Light: Bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves.
- Moisture: Keep the central cup (rosette) filled with water, but allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Mist occasionally to maintain humidity.
Aechmea
Aechmeas are characterized by their stiff, arching green leaves and striking flower spikes that can be pink, red, or blue, often with a silvery bloom on the leaves. The most common species, Aechmea fasciata (Silver Vase or Urn Plant), features large, showy inflorescences and can brighten up any room with its unique texture and bold appearance. These plants are hardy and forgiving, making them a favorite for beginners.
- Light: Moderate to bright, indirect light. Can tolerate lower light but will bloom better with more light.
- Moisture: Water the central cup and keep the soil lightly moist, allowing the top inch to dry between waterings. Mist regularly to boost humidity.
Neoregelia
Neoregelias are prized for their colorful foliage rather than their flowers. The leaves can have stunning patterns, including stripes, spots, or solid colors in shades of red, pink, purple, and green. When in bloom, the central rosette of leaves often turns a bright red or purple, making it appear like the plant itself is flowering. Neoregelias are compact and perfect for adding a splash of color to indoor gardens without the need for large blooms.
- Light: Bright, indirect light. Some varieties can handle more light, but too much direct sun can cause leaf burn.
- Moisture: Keep the central cup filled with water. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Regular misting helps maintain humidity.
Vriesea
Vriesea plants are known for their flat, sword-shaped flower spikes that rise above a rosette of smooth, arching leaves. The most well-known variety, Vriesea splendens (Flaming Sword), features a bold, red or yellow flower spike and variegated leaves. Vriesea is appreciated for its striking architectural form and long-lasting flowers, which can last for months. Their ability to tolerate lower light makes them a great choice for indoor spaces.
- Light: Bright, indirect light, but can tolerate lower light conditions.
- Moisture: Keep the central cup filled with water and water the soil when it becomes dry. Mist frequently to maintain higher humidity levels.
Tillandsia (Air Plants)
Tillandsias, commonly called air plants, are unique in that they do not require soil to grow. Instead, they absorb moisture and nutrients through their leaves, making them highly versatile for display in terrariums, mounted on driftwood, or suspended in hanging arrangements. They have thin, spiky, or curly leaves that can range from silver-green to dark green. Their tiny, colorful blooms are a bonus, and they thrive in bright, indirect light with regular misting or soaking.
- Light: Bright, indirect light. These plants can tolerate some direct sunlight, especially in the morning or late afternoon.
- Moisture: Soak the plant in water for 15–30 minutes once a week, and mist in between if the air is dry. Ensure good air circulation and let them dry completely after watering.
Billbergia
Billbergia plants are known for their elegant, tubular rosettes of narrow leaves and their spectacular, but short-lived, flower spikes. The leaves are often spotted or streaked with silver or white, giving them a distinctive look even when not in bloom. The flowers themselves are a combination of bright pink bracts with blue or green petals. Billbergias are fast growers and are often grown in hanging baskets to showcase their graceful form.
- Light: Bright, indirect light, but can tolerate some direct sunlight.
- Moisture: Water the central cup and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Mist occasionally to maintain moisture in dry conditions.
Cryptanthus (Earth Stars)
Cryptanthus, often referred to as Earth Stars due to their low-growing, star-shaped rosettes of wavy, patterned leaves, are perfect for indoor gardens and terrariums. Unlike many other bromeliads, Cryptanthus grows directly in soil and does not form a central water-holding cup. Their leaves come in striking combinations of pink, red, white, and green, making them an attractive groundcover in mixed containers or as standalone plants. They add texture and a pop of color to any indoor space.
- Light: Bright, indirect light or filtered sunlight. Too much direct sunlight can cause leaf burn, but too little light can dull the colors.
- Moisture: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Unlike many other bromeliads, Cryptanthus does not hold water in a central cup.
Bromeliad Bloom Cycle
The bloom cycle of a bromeliad can take anywhere from one to several years, depending on the species and growing conditions. Bromeliads typically bloom after they have fully matured, and the flowers emerge from the center of the plant. The bloom can last from several weeks to several months, with colors ranging from bright red, orange, pink, or yellow to more subtle shades depending on the variety.
Post-Bloom Stage
Once a bromeliad has bloomed, the plant will not produce another flower from the same rosette. The bloom will eventually fade, and the plant will begin its natural decline, but this process is slow and the plant will often live for some time after blooming.
Pup Production
After flowering, bromeliads focus their energy on producing pups—small offshoots that grow at the base of the mother plant. These pups can be separated and grown into new bromeliad plants, which will eventually bloom in the same cycle.
Managing Expectations for Reblooming
One important aspect of bromeliad care is understanding that the main plant will not rebloom. The focus shifts to caring for the pups, which are the key to continuing the life cycle of the bromeliad. Gardeners should not expect the mother plant to bloom again, and it will eventually die off after it has produced pups.
Encouraging Pup Growth
To encourage healthy pup growth, make sure the mother plant is in a well-lit environment with adequate moisture. Once the pups are about one-third the size of the mother plant, they can be carefully removed and potted separately to start their own growth cycle. With proper care, pups can mature and bloom after 1-3 years, depending on the species.
Artificially Inducing Blooming
While bromeliads bloom naturally when they reach maturity, there are ways to encourage blooming in mature plants. One common method is using ethylene gas from ripe fruit, such as apples. Placing the bromeliad and a ripe apple in a plastic bag for about a week can stimulate flowering, as the ethylene gas released by the fruit mimics the conditions that trigger blooming. However, this should only be done with mature plants that have not yet bloomed.
Patience is Key
The process from pup to bloom requires patience. Bromeliads are slow growers, and it may take several years for a pup to mature and bloom. During this time, providing proper light, moisture, and care will ensure that the plant remains healthy and produces vibrant flowers when it reaches maturity.
Propagating Bromeliads
While some bromeliads die after flowering, they often produce offsets or “pups” that can be used to propagate new plants. Wait until these offsets begin to resemble the parent plant, developing a leaf cup and roots, before separating them. Use a sterile knife to carefully slice off the pups, or remove the dead parent plant and leave the offsets in the original pot to continue growing.
Handling pups with care is crucial, as young plants can be sensitive to root disturbance. After separation, pot them in a similar light, airy mix, and provide the same care guidelines as the parent plant. Pups typically establish roots quickly and can grow into full-sized plants within a couple of years.
Common Growing Problems
The main issues that arise when growing bromeliads typically stem from using heavy soil or overwatering, which can lead to fungal growth and root rot. To prevent these problems, we recommend repotting your bromeliad every couple of years. This refreshes the soil and helps prevent rotting.
Troubleshooting Bromeliad Issues
Here are some common problems you might encounter when growing bromeliads and how to address them:
- Yellowing leaves: This could be a sign of overwatering or poor drainage. Ensure the soil is well-draining and allow it to dry between waterings.
- Brown leaf tips: This may indicate low humidity or over-fertilization. Increase humidity around the plant and reduce fertilizer application.
- Failure to bloom: Check if the plant is receiving enough light and if it’s the right time of year for blooming. Some varieties may need specific day lengths to trigger flowering.
- Pest Infestations: Bromeliads can occasionally attract pests like scale or spider mites. Use neem oil or insecticidal soap as a method of control, ensuring to cover both sides of the leaves for effective treatment.
- Fungal Growth: Ensure good air circulation and avoid excessively damp conditions. If fungal issues occur, fungicides can help, though prevention through optimal care should be your primary goal.
