How to Winterize Roses

Red rose bloom
If you live in a colder climate and grow tender hybrid tea, grandiflora, or floribunda roses, you may want to provide them with some winter protection before the temperatures dip too low. Depending on your preference and your climate, you can choose from several methods:

  • Hilling with soil or mulch.
  • Building winterization structures.
  • Using the “Minnesota Tip” method.

Do I Need to Winterize My Roses?

You may need to winterize your roses if:

  • You live in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 and colder; or
  • Your ground stays frozen solid for much of the winter, with temperatures staying below 20º F or regularly dipping below 10º without a heavy, insulating snow cover.

You probably don’t need to winterize if:

  • You grow wild or native roses, or have chosen extra-hardy varieties designed for your climate.
  • Your winter temperatures only occasionally drop into the single digits.
  • You have very wet, rainy winters – in consistently wet weather, your roses are better left uncovered to prevent disease.

roses in winter

When to Winterize

Winter protection should be applied after temperatures are cold enough for several frosts, but before the ground freezes. You want your roses to be used to some cold temperatures before insulating them.

Preparation for Winter Protection

Follow these steps to prepare your roses for the winter:

  1. Make sure the plants are healthy, by addressing diseases and pests as they arise and keeping them watered and fed throughout the growing season.
  2. Stop applying nitrogen fertilizers by early fall. Some gardeners like to apply a winterizing (non-nitrogen) fertilizer in late fall.
  3. Remove all fallen leaves and debris from within and around the plant.


  1. Prune back canes to 30-36 inches. Don’t do your major pruning at this time, just prune enough to prevent breakage in strong winter winds. Also remove (and do not compost) any diseased or dead branches. If you have to make any major cuts, seal them with wax or white wood glue.
  2. Tie the tips of long canes together, to prevent breakage in the wind.

Now you’re ready to winterize!

Hilling with Soil

Soil conducts heat, so a nice mound of soil around your rose bush will conduct warmth from the ground up into the main stem.

Using a shovel, simply mound soil around the canes of your rose, making a mound about 1’ high by 1’ wide. With grafted roses, your mound should cover the bud union, which is where the main stem was grafted onto the root stock. The bud union is a noticeable bump on the stem, right near ground level.

If you use this method, be sure to bring in extra soil – don’t dig soil from around your roses, or you’ll expose the roots to the cold.

Then simply apply a nice layer of mulch, and you’re done!


Hilling with Mulch

If you prefer, you can use mulch instead of soil. While mulch doesn’t conduct heat like soil, it acts as an insulator that keeps the cold away. If you choose this method, make the mound at least 18” high and wide.

Using Winterizing Structures

If your roses are particularly tender, you may want to go a step further and use a winterizing structure that completely covers the plant. You can make your own structure by surrounding each plant with a cylinder of chicken wire supported by plant stakes.

hilling diagram

  1. Begin by mounding soil over the crown of the plants, using the Hilling Method above.
  2. Install the structure. Your rose should have about a foot of clearance all the way around.
  3. Fill the rest of the structure with leaves, straw, or other loose and non-compacting material.

Winterizing structures have their drawbacks. To begin with, rodents find the insides of these structures quite cozy, and they may decide to spend the winter hibernating and feasting on your tender rose shoots. Also, if winter temperatures fluctuate wildly, the insides of the structures can heat up, become humid, and breed fungus and disease. Make sure there are holes in the top for air circulation.

You can also purchase winterizing structures for your roses rather than building them – cones, collars, and other structures are available to hold your insulating material. If you go this route, the cones made of foam are not recommended. During a warm spell, they can heat up considerably, causing the rose to break dormancy or breed disease.

Winterizing Climbing Roses

Tender climbing roses can be bundled and tied, then wrapped with straw and burlap. Use the hilling method around the roots and crown. Climbing roses can also be winterized using the “Minnesota Tip” method below.

winterizing structure
All this needs is a Jack-O-Lantern head, and you’ll have a nice autumn scarecrow.

The “Minnesota Tip”

This method is not for the faint of heart, nor is it necessary unless your winters are extremely severe and you’re a fan of tender rose varieties. The “Minnesota Tip” involves digging a trench and carefully leaning over and burying your entire rose.

minnesota tip diagram

Winterizing Container-Grown and Tree Roses

Container and tree roses can also be tipped and buried, or they can be stored in a garage or unheated cellar where the temperatures will remain between 25º and 40º all winter.

When to Remove the Winterization

yellow rose

Remove the winterization in the spring, after the ground has thawed but before the rose has put out much new growth. Some gardeners remove the mulch covering in early April, then the rest of the soil around mid-April.

Winterizing roses takes quite a bit of work, but it allows gardeners in cold climates the luxury of a delicate, established rose garden.

Further Information

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  1. I have own root roses. However the wind around my area are strong in winter; had to prune back some roses 2+feet (Floribinda). They have gotten full, bushy and are hard to get wire around; can not leave 1 ft you suggest. Would just hilling them with soil and then tying them work? Zone 5, Northwest Indiana

  2. I apologize for asking my earlier question, until I had read all you site on winterizing. I see now that you have answered my question about the cones. I will make a structure of hardware cloth (1/2 inch metal mesh) and fill it with soil, then leafs. Thank you for all this wonderful information. Gwen

  3. My 4 roses were left bymy Mom and she loved them. This information will help me keep them growing their beautiful roses. I’ve just been covering them with blankets & sheets when it freezes…i hope that’s is OK.

  4. We are planning on moving from Chicago area to Columbia, Missouri – same zone as St. Louis and Kansas City. When is the best time to transplant my roses and what precautions do I need to talk to make sure they make the trip well and survive in their new dirt – all clay rather than Illinois black dirt?

  5. I have a climbing rose that did very well this year, kept free of pests and bloomed several times even very late this fall. I kept it well watered and fertilized during the growing season here in Iowa. But now nights are getting colder and having frost in the morning. The rose is planted in a bed with weed blocker around the base and topped with decorative landscaping rocks. What would you recommend for winterizing? Should I just make sure it is well insulated around the canes or do I have to do the hill mound thing as well?

  6. Hello, thanks for the tips. Would you do a segment on winterizing the roof. For instance, what type of maintenance should be done in early fall to early winter, and any other great tips you can come up with will be deeply appreciated.
    Thank you.

  7. I have yellow knockout roses. They are not blooming and seem to be dying. It is now October in Georgia. I was thinking about cutting out the dead to make them look better. During the winter we have very little really cold weather. I was also fertilize them. What do you think?

  8. We planted 5 floribunda last Spring then had a Bomb Cyclone Winter (worst ever in Colo Spgs). Roses died to the ground. I had left about 15″stems and mounded 6-8″ of soil but it didn’t save them. I’m seeing a bit of new growth but our Summers are only 5 months. Should I give them more time or plan on replacing them?

    • That’s a tough one, Eileen, especially without seeing the situation in person.
      The nursery where you purchased them can provide information to ensure optimal care and growth.
      Good luck!

  9. My knockout Rose’s are in direct sunlight but are thin and never bloom. I fertilized them and saw zero improvement. I gave one to my neighbor and its flourishing with blooms but hers is in lighter or filtered sun. I thought they liked a lot of sun, so I have no idea what I’m doing wrong.
    I’ve never had success with Rose’s.

  10. I have roses here in Franklin NC zone 7a . I cut them back to 12-16 inches with 4-5 main stems. I cover with leaves. They have done fine. Now I have climbing roses affixed to a trellis. This is new for me. Our winters are mild with 10 degrees infrequent and 2-4 inches of snow 3-4 times a winter that melts quickly. usually it is 40+ in the afternoon. I am 81 and do not buy green bananas. So, I would like to preserve the growth of the climbing roses. Do I cover them? Or just provide insulation to the roots? If I have to, I could cover the trellis and roses with a tarp? I have two Joseph Coats and one white tea climbing rose on the single trellis. No winter instructions came with these roses. Help!

    • Hi, Ross,
      We suggest contacting your local Master Gardeners association for the best recommendation tailored to your geographic area.
      Here’s where you can do that:
      Master gardeners train on a range of topics so they can provide advice, at no charge, for people in their area.
      Thanks for your question, and good luck!


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