
How to Install a New Exterior Door Unit
To install a new exterior door unit in the wall opening:
- Check the rough opening to make sure the studs are plumb and square.
- If you removed the door from the frame to paint it, put the door back in the frame, and tap the hinge pins in place.
- Test fit the door unit in the opening from the outside to make sure it fits and aligns properly.
- Remove the door unit from the opening.
- If the doorway is not protected from rain, make sure a metal drip cap is in place above the door that extends behind the siding and over the brick casing.
- Put a bead of caulk on the outer edge of the sill, followed by a second bead of caulk 1/2″ inside the first.
- Put a bead of caulk around the exterior opening between the sheathing and exterior door casing.
- Drill undersized holes in the brick mold on each exterior door casing.
- Place the threshold of the door unit on the sill from outside, then stand the unit up in the opening.
- Align the frame square and plumb in the opening, using a level and the top of the door for reference.
- Hammer 10d (3”) galvanized or stainless steel casing nails in the predrilled holes in the exterior door casing, leaving the heads protruding in case the door needs adjustment.
- Open and close the door, checking it for fit against the door frame and threshold. Make sure there is approximately a uniform 1/8” gap between the door and jambs.
- Place wood or plywood shims behind each of the hinge locations to fill any gap between the door jamb and stud.
- Replace two of the top and bottom short hinge screws in the door jamb with 2” or longer hinge screws that penetrate through the shims and at least 1” into the stud.
- Place shims between the latch side of the door frame and stud to fill any gap, then hammer 8d (2½”) finishing nails through the jamb into the stud.
- Place shims between the latch side of the door frame and deadbolt latch and locket locations.
- Install the interior door casing using 8d (2½”) finishing nails, allowing for a uniform 1/8” to 3/16” wide reveal between the casing and jamb on all three sides.
- Use a nail set to set all nails below the surface, and fill the holes with painter’s putty or wood filler.
- Caulk around the exterior door casing and siding or brick, and touch up nail holes with paint.
- Install the lockset and deadbolt, making sure the latch screws penetrate through the casing and into the stud at least 1”.



We have a older home 1937 with a wooden entry round top door. Need to replace it, would like to do so with a square one, what are our options?
Ramona,
I’ve done a lot of research and I would recommend a fiberglass door that is made to look like wood. This way it would continue with the look of your home but provide better insulation for hot or cool weather.
I want to install a 36 inch prehung to a 35 inch opening. Can I remove the double stud framing or do you have a better idea?
Need to replace door sweep. door pins are spring loaded. found vidos to remove pin. Whats next, its a knuckle buster after the pins come out. found no futher info. Jeff.
I think I may need look more into refinishing and refurnishing. Though my door does have some issues, like wood deterioration, but I don’t think it’s that big of a deal. I think I’m just in the mood for change.
Great post!!!
Thanks for letting me know that wood beginning to rot is a sign you need to replace the door. My door has begun to have this issue, and I want our home to remain secure. Maybe it would be best to replace the door as soon as possible.
Hi, Lillian,
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My exterior door doesn’t have any damage but the frame and jamb or threshold(the bottom) are loose, can just those be replaced or do I have to buy the door and frame set?
Hi, Susan,
You shouldn’t need to buy a new door and frame set. Repairing a loose door frame and jamb could be a DIY job, or you could “hire it done.”
It just depends on the damage involved.
We recommend getting a professional to look at the situation and offer a quote based on his or her inspection.
Good luck!