Ask Danny — answers to your home improvement questions

Thanks for visiting Ask Danny’s answers page! Here are some of our fans’ burning questions for Today’s Homeowner TV host Danny Lipford.

Who knows? Danny might have already answered the question that’s on your mind!
Check out our library of answers below.

What can I do about mold in my home?

How to repair a water-damaged cabinet

Particle board cabinets and oven safety

What to do with leaking faucet hose bibbs

What should I do with this pink marble tub?

Can I install tile directly over plywood?

How to flush out downspout debris

Advice for planting a camellia

Danny Lipford is among the country’s most sought-after home improvement experts.
The seasoned remodeling contractor and media personality served as the home improvement expert for CBS’s “The Early Show” and The Weather Channel for over a decade and has made more than 180 national television appearances on “Fox & Friends,” “Inside Edition,” “Morning Express with Robin Meade,” Fox Business Channel, Rachael Ray and more.
He travels the country making appearances as a brand ambassador and spokesperson, and each year contributes expertise to hundreds of popular magazines and online media outlets.

23 COMMENTS

  1. I live in Michigan where sinkholes are not common. This past Friday a large (2×3) section in my driveway fell in. There appears to be a void almost two feet deep that stretches several feet in different directions. The area beneath the void was soft enough so, that a four foot metal pole could easily probe the ground (which was moist) at the bottom of the void with ease for the full length of the pole (ran out of pole after that). A plumber took a look and was “stumped,” he could not locate any pipes or water source in the area of the void. I have someone willing to repave the area but I am worried that there is an underlying issue which is not resolved. Should I contact someone and if so who?

    • Hi, Abraham,
      Many times voids like this are a result of tree roots deteriorating over time. They can also be created by rainwater channeling under the slab and washing out the water.

      Either way, the void needs to be filled with compacted clay or crushed stone.

      Good luck!

  2. Hello..we have an Illinois ranch house with a covered front porch with a brick floor that is up one step from ground level..the roof overhang is supported by three 6″ X 6″ rough sawn cedar posts that are painted white and are resting on the brick flooring…the middle post has rotted up about 6″ from bottom..I have driven wooden wedges in from the sides to support the post and it doesnt seem to be anchored at the top..just the weight of overhang is holding it / them in place ?? Also, the corner of the brick support wall has a medium size vertical crack in it where it appears to have shifted somewhat..Several of the flooring bricks, on the same corner have lost mortar underneath them as well..thanks for any help / solutions…

    • Hi, Dan,

      Danny says, “I would suggest replacing the middle post since it has that much rot damage and you can reattach the loose brick flooring by using an exterior construction adhesive.

      “I would suggest using long coated deck screws to attach the columns to the wood above.”

      Good luck!

  3. Hello I am repainting a bathroom and the outside drywall corner is rusted and bleeding thru the paint. I sanded it all off and put a 2 coats of kilz on and waited 4 days and the rust is coming back again. What can I apply to stop the rust from bleeding thru. I am using water base paint in the bathroom and do not want to paint over until I know the rust will not bleed thru. Thank you in advance for the help. Some one told me to use white out over the rust. Have you ever heard of using this.

    • Hi, Rose,

      Danny says, “I can understand your frustration; this happens a lot. The best thing to use to block out that rust would be a shellac based primer. I would suggest B-I-N from Zinsser.
      We recommend that a lot because that really does help.

      Good luck!”

  4. I have a porch attached to my house. Ive noticed some settling under the porch, and some water running towards the house. I need to add some fill to raise grade so it slopes away from the house. Any recommendations on what to use? I talked to someone from a gravel company. He recommended using class 5 to get proper slope, then put down plastic and decorative rock over that. Keep in mind I have about 30″ between bottom of porch and ground level next to house. Not alot of space to work.

    • Hi, Joe,
      Use a packable soil. And fill in as much as necessary to keep the water away from your house. Topping it with a small rock or gravel should discourage any erosion.
      Good luck!

  5. I am not wanting to put in a backsplash in my kitchen but there is a very small–maybe 1/2 inch space between my kitchen sink and the window above that the paint tends to peel and chip. What can I do there as far as sealing it down that will stop that? Thanks.

    • Hi, Frankie,
      Sand, add bonding primer and then add quality acrylic latex paint to the area. It will expand and contract.
      Good luck with your project!

  6. Hi I have a small two bedroom single story home in Illinois. I am a single Grandmother raising my Grandchild. When I purchased the home 9 years ago it was a small1 bedroom I had a bedroom and a living room added since that addition I have had a significant leak where the existing structure meets the addition the leak is just at both ends going up about 2 feet it is damaging the walls. Depending on the angle of the rain sometimes it pours in and sometimes a small leak with a lot of bubbling. The contractor who did this is no longer works in the business. I did have a roofer come overlook at it 2 years ago he sealed up the seam it did not solve the issue. At this point I don’t know what to do I can’t afford a new roof and I was told it doesn’t need a new roof but that the seam was not placed properly That it needed to be overlapping. I would appreciate any advice you could give me on this matter?

    • Hi, Lori,
      Danny says, “You might try installing a peel-and-stick membrane that’s available in the roofing department at any home center. Install the membrane over the seam in question; hopefully, that will help.
      Good luck!”

  7. Hi Danny and Chelsea,
    I have acquired some bi-fold closet doors the track wasn’t with them. Actually they were an along the road side find. The best kind. I need to know what type of track to get to hang them at what I call my sun room.

  8. I watch your show weekly and I never see a show on mobile homes and anyone in low income. Can you show some for people like me that needs a lot of repairs ideas? Thank you.

    • Hi, Harry,
      Thanks for your suggestion! We are always looking for ways to better serve our fans and enhance the television show.
      I have forwarded your message to the “Today’s Homeowner” producer for consideration.

      Take care!

  9. Hello, I’ve written your column a few times with the same question, can you show or refer me to information on changing the garage door bottom strip.
    Thanks

    • Hi, Darryl!
      Several varieties of aftermarket garage door seals are available. Some screw to the bottom of the door while others slide into a channel built into the bottom of the door.
      The solution will depend on the type of door seal that you currently have and need to replace.
      We recommend photographing your door seal and taking that photo to your local home center for the best match.
      Good luck!

  10. We have a porch and car port that the flooring is cement and has been painted several times with “supposedly “ correct paint. But each time it eventually peels off. Suggestions? I can send pictures. Thanks

  11. My house is an 8 year old brick ranch. The garage is attached to the right side and extends app. 30′ toward the street. when it rains the runoff is stopped by the side of the garage floor. Also, after the sprinkler system comes on the sprinkler system comes on it stays moist. It gets indirect sunlight so it dries out only in Fall & Winter. There’s some top edge moisture inside and the felt lining between brick and floor has deteriorated. I dug a 4″ wide, base deep trench applied two coats of liquid drylock to brick/floor edge and the ground “slough” and filled it with drain stone. I removed all the old interior. When the brick and concrete dry out I will waterproof and fill back with an elastic sealer, I think. Am I on the right track. Any suggestions. Anyone! This is tough work for a 69 year old with joint issues! Thanks, Steve

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